Fowler's Bay

Tonight we’re treating ourselves to a caravan park at Fowler’s Bay, which is just before the Nullabor. We decided it was time for a clothes wash and shower, so this is it! It was also nice that it didn’t take us terribly long to get here either – helped by the fact that we set a trip record, and left this morning by 9.20am. So we arrived here at 3ish, which meant that there was time to have a look around before getting cooking etc, which made for a much more pleasant evening, rather than rushing to set up, rushing to cook and wash up in daylight etc. It’s a funny little town, I think it has a permanent population of 14, and is mainly here for fishing and whale watching tourism. It’s basically a couple of houses plonked right next to these huge sand dunes which come right to the edge of the town and right to the edge of the water. We went for a walk on them which was really fun (the running down part) and the kids loved it. Unfortunately we forgot to take the camera…. But I’m sure we’ll see more dunes as we go. There are also lots of people in the caravan park (staying in parks is much more sociable than bush camping!) and even a family with kids. Although their kids are too old for our guys it was still nice talking to the parents as they’re heading in the same direction as us, and they’ve come from the NSW/VIC border. They were even generous enough to offer us a fish that they had caught for our dinner, as they had caught more than they could eat – it was a monster salmon, freshly caught this afternoon from the beach in the surf, and was fantastic. We quickly ditched our pasta water which was cooking and just had the sauce with the salmon.

It’s also nice to be staying somewhere mice-free, although when I asked if they had a laundry, I forgot to check if they had a dryer, so now I’m hoping that our stuff will blow dry by the time we want to leave tomorrow. Luckily it’s windy and cloudy tonight so it probably won’t get too cold. We are trying to time it so that we have one more night’s fresh fruit and veggies before we get patted down on the WA border – apparently they’re quite strict and there’s a quarantine station that’s staffed 24 hours a day, so I may be there, yet again, trying to finish that last orange rather than throw it out. The kids are all cosy after a shower before bed (I’m saving mine for the morning) so it’s time for me to pack it in too.

Streaky Bay

We made it to Streaky Bay in good time yesterday – well just south of it at Westall Point. It’s another campsite with nothing there but it’s right next to the beach, which is nice (hence why there’s other people here). I actually preferred the one on Lake Gilles which felt much more remote, partly because we were on our own which was nice, partly because there was lots of wood for a nice big fire (none here), and partly because this place is overrun with little fieldmice, which turn up at dusk. I was the only one who didn’t have them running over my feet at dinner, and that was only because I kept up a furious tap dance under the table while eating. They haven’t gotten into anything because we have it all in good boxes, just a bit disconcerting – especially when doing a bush wee in the dark, since I have to get closer to the ground than the boys. We’re going to stay another night though, because we all need a bit of a break from a driving day, and a seal on our water tank under the trailer broke last night (a rock I think), so we need to go into town to see if we can buy another. Nick did a great job fixing it when we got here so we didn’t lose all the water, but it’s a temporary fix. We  might also try and find the Streaky Bay library which the boys will like, collect some wood from somewhere and have a play on the beach.

It’s been absolutely FREEZING at night which Conor is really feeling. They both wear their thermals (brought to you by Aldi) to bed at night under their winter pyjamas and I’m very glad that we brought them, plus the water bottles, which are paramount! Yesterday morning there was ice/frost on the top of the table outside and Conor was not a happy chappy getting out of bed to that kind of weather (must be the Learmonth genes Jenny). What with the thermals, the thermal cooker, the camping loo (yet to be used), the set of melamine mixing bowls, the bunk beds and the clothes airer (also yet to be used), all the Aldi stuff is getting a lot of use and holding up well. Our fire plate is also going great guns Peter & Jenny, and the folding handle wok. The other thing I’m loving is my very old piece of washing line which is just twisted elastic with hooks on either end, but it can hang up anywhere and it’s great for hanging tea towels on to dry *and* you don’t need pegs.

*News flash* Daniel was the first to try out the camping loo to great success. I think he was wondering why Nick and I made such a big deal of it. When he came out of our tent and Conor asked what it was like, he said “it’s just a toilet, except you feel stupid sitting on it in the tent”. Says it all really.

The Big Galah - Kimba SA, the flock of galahs on the granary opposite didn't seem to mind their large brother

The Big Farmer

Murphy's Haystacks

Homage to "Are We There Yet"

14th May, KI - Auburn - Lake Gilles

We’ve had two days of pretty big drives, but are surviving pretty well considering. Yesterday morning we finally said goodbye to Bron (happy 40^th Bron!), Mike, Joel, Kian and Kangaroo Island. After 10 nights there we were getting a bit comfy (apart from being bedridden with the flu) and camping seemed a distant memory, so we were even looking forward to getting back to the trailer (just as long as it doesn’t rain, I keep saying). At the back of Nick and my minds though, was the knowledge that after packing it up in a hurry two weeks earlier in the rain, after being in the rain for a few days, it was still going to be wet, possibly growing mould. I’m not sure about mould but it was certainly still damp inside and it really stinks. On the positive side, we had washed our sheets in Adelaide so we could at least put our nice clean, not-mouldy sheets on for the first night. We drove from Cape Jervis, via Mt Barker for some spare parts and a new camping chair for one of the kids, back to Helene’s to pick up the stinky trailer, hitch up and go.

Friday afternoon possibly wasn’t the best time to be heading out of Adelaide in terms of traffic, and we were naturally later than planned, so we didn’t get quite as far as we hoped, and settled for the Auburn Caravan Park, at the bottom of the Clare Valley. Nick and I have a soft spot for Auburn, because we stayed in the Rising Sun pub when we went there years and years ago (ie before kids) and really liked it. This time it was the caravan park and as it was late, we were tired and stressed (ok it was me that was stressed) getting out of Adelaide, we treated ourselves to pizza from the pizza place just next door to the Rising Sun. It was nice enough pizza, the only weird thing was that they didn’t have any sort of licence, so no BYO or buying a drink. I say weird, because it’s smack bang in the middle of a big wine region, so I would think that not only tourists but locals would be used to having a small glass of something with dinner.

Anyway it was just what we needed, then we snuggled up in bed early (still not quite completely better from the flu) and slept the whole night through. This morning was more driving, and we drove through the beautiful Clare Valley, autumn vines on either side as far as the eye could see, and kept driving and driving, until it became more scrubby surroundings with little trees, and the dirt was becoming a little bit reddish. By the time we hit Port Augusta we were starting to see some road trains as well, and were really beginning to feel like we were getting close to ‘the outback’, wherever that is in particular. We had lunch in Port Augusta, filled up a very empty tank and decided now was the time to fill up three of our jerry cans - $186 later! Stocked up for a couple of nights’ food and headed West now, along the Eyre highway and the top of the Eyre peninsula. We were looking for a cheap campground on Lake Gilles one of our books mentioned, but had trouble finding it. The distances mentioned weren’t quite right so we did a bit of back and forth (always fun at the end of the day, wondering if you’re going to find your campsite or have to keep going to a town and pay through the nose again), finally gave up, and found it just after that. It’s a great place – on the shores of Lake Gilles which is a salt lake, and we’re the only ones here (possibly because there’s absolutely no facilities and it’s not really a campsite as such). We were just in time to get a quick fire going, cook some sausages, potatoes and veggies and eat it at dusk as the sun went down over the salt lake, magic. Conor’s a bit nervous because we’re so far away from anyone else, but I reassured him that the mobile phone has reception, so no worries.  Could this also be the first time we try our camping loo (brought to you by Aldi)? stay tuned to find out. Tomorrow I think we will head for Streaky Bay, that’s the plan anyway, haven’t counted how many k’s away it is so we’ll see.

Resurfacing

We’re all finally surfacing after a couple of days lying low with the flu – I came down with it about 2 days ahead of the rest of the family so that’s helping me out in that I’m 2 days better, but it’s still been 5 days and I’m not completely back to normal yet, so I’m glad we delayed our ferry ‘til Friday. We’re very lucky to be staying with such good and accommodating friends Bron and Mike, who haven’t minded having four extra people in their house (and being sick, we’re inside a lot) for such a long time. Luckily all four boys have gotten on really well the whole time (I hope I’m not jinxing myself) so it hasn’t been a problem.

It has meant, though, that with time spent sleeping it off here, we’re a bit behind so we’re going to have to skip Lake Eyre and Coober Pedy. It’s a shame because Nick and I were keen on the lake and I think the boys would have liked Coober Pedy, but the trip is going to be full of choices such as this….

So now we’re researching where to stay next, heading across the top of Adelaide towards the Nullarbor rather than up north. We have also noticed some interesting facts about Kangaroo Island that had never occurred to me until I just read them: on Kangaroo Island there are no: food chains, no night clubs, no cinema, and no traffic lights!

Mother's Day

Happy Mother’s Day to all those mothers out there (and especially to you, mum and Jenny). We had fantastic weather today and drove onto the other side of the island, first to Penneshaw, where the ferry comes in and there’s quite a good little skate park with nice low ramps that our guys could attempt on scooters (and hardly anyone on there). Then we went to the Chapman River Winery for a beautiful antipasto platter and glass of rose, while the kids played on their playground right next to where we were sitting (brilliant idea). Unfortunately I’m not feeling the best so am about to go to bed, and will miss Bron’s little penguin tour tonight – it’s a shame but you can’t do everything, and I’m just not up to it. One more day here to recover and then we head off on Tuesday morning on the ferry, back to get our trailer from Adelaide.

Australian Sea lions

We had a great day today, first of all a brief visit to Bales Beach, although the tide was too high to walk around the headland to a nice sea pool, and then we decided to go to a Raptor Bird Display which was on nearby, while we waited for our Seal Bay tour. The bird show was really pretty cool, largely because the audience was quite small and there was lots of interaction with the birds for both adults and kids. We saw a magpie and currawong, kestrel, boobook owl, barn owl, tawny frog mouth (not actually an owl apparently, which I didn’t know), blue tailed kookaburras, barking owl, and a wedge tailed eagle, which was very popular with everyone, such an impressive creature, Daniel was very impressed with how long its wingspan was. What I found interesting was that the barn owl hunts by stealth so is completely silent – even his legs have feathers on them, because if they didn’t, to a mouse they would sound like a whip when he brings them down to pick the mouse up. So with very soft feathers on them they’re really quiet, and he can sneak up on his prey.

After lunch we went to Seal Bay and on the Sealion tour which takes you down a boardwalk and right onto the beach within 10m of the Australian Seals with a guide which was really cool. They are apparently quite endangered, I think it’s the third largest colony in the country. Australian sealions it turns out have an 18 month cycle, in that their gestational period is 18 months, then about a week after the pup is born the bull turns up and gets her pregnant again, and she feeds the pup milk for 18 months until just before the new pup is born. They also work on 3 day on and off again day shifts, where they go out to sea for 3 days to feed (100k offshore and 100m down), they eat about a third of their body weight, and then come back for 3 days to rest and digest. When they are feeding a very young pup the mums might only go out for a day, but pretty soon even the mum is off for 3 days at a time and the pup just has to wait. There were really cute pups rolling around in the surf and surfing in on waves having a great time.

Now we’re back home resting – unfortunately I’ve come down with something so am not feeling that great. Good thing we’ve got a few more days here to rest up.